Unveiling the Autumn-Winter 2025 Fashion Trends: Gritty Elegance, Narrow Waists, and a Primordial Allure
The A/W 2025 womenswear shows in Paris have come to a close, and a new trend has emerged as the key focus: raw glamour. This aesthetic aims to balance effortless, natural beauty with sophisticated, polished style.
Sarah Burton, in her debut at Givenchy, showcased her meticulous eye for tailoring with carved-waist blazers and overcoats featuring a wide, amplified shoulder line. Her collection stripped the silhouette of connotations of confinement, while still maintaining a sense of elegance. Burton's collection also included a sculptural tailored jacket which fastened along its back.
Seán McGirr's A/W 2025 show for the British house McQueen focused on an amped-up 'hourglass' silhouette, inspired by Lee McQueen's designs. McGirr's riff on the hourglass silhouette featured extra-long sleeves, a corseted waistline, and rounded, armour-like shoulders.
The 'raw glamour' collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons interrogated conventional beauty, featuring dishevelled bed head hair by Guido Palau. The designers paired functional, slightly oversized outerwear like anoraks with delicate eveningwear, creating a fresh interpretation of glamour that feels both approachable and striking.
Other designers embraced this trend by combining sheer and floaty fabrics with tailoring, creating a delicate yet structured feel. This was seen at Nina Ricci, Carolina Herrera, and Maison Margiela. Retro prints and contrasts also made an appearance, mixing vintage references with modern silhouettes, lending a nostalgic yet contemporary edge. Versace, Valentino, and Miu Miu all showcased this style.
Tropes of feminine elegance, like fur coats or ladylike handbags, were subverted in provocative style. Comme des Garçons' A/W 2025 collection featured enormous sculptural 'gloves' wrapped around the hand like a boxer's gloves or lobster claw. Issey Miyake's A/W 2025 collection featured performers contorting themselves into surreal forms as part of a collaboration with Erwin Wurm, and several designers created silhouettes this season which obscured the hands, such as Issey Miyake's jaunty kangaroo pockets on dresses.
Hermès' A/W 2025 collection moved between a determined sensuality and something softer and enveloping, figured in coats with enormous collars. At Hodakova, trousers were turned upside down and recut into dresses. Nostalgic glamour - largely twisted or disrupted - ran throughout the season. At Zomer, a Paris-based brand, the A/W 2025 collection featured almost every look turned upside-down or back-to-front.
Practical yet stylish elements like scarf jackets, suede knee-high boots, patent leather pieces, and pleated mini skirts also made an appearance, balancing coolness with classic autumnal elegance in French fashion ethos.
Overall, "raw glamour" at A/W 2025 shows in Paris is characterized by a clever interplay of textures and styles—combining the unfinished or casual with luxe and the functional with refined. This move towards a glamour that feels authentic, dynamic, and multi-dimensional rather than overly polished or traditional is a refreshing change, offering a new perspective on the fashion industry.
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