Ascending Under Elevated Heights
High-Altitude Climbing: Essential Tips and Best Practices
Climbing at extreme altitudes presents both physical and mental challenges that demand careful preparation and management. Here are essential tips to help climbers navigate the demanding environment above 5500 meters.
Physiological Challenges of High-Altitude Expeditions
The oxygen content in the air decreases linearly with ascent, reaching about half of sea level oxygen at 5500 meters. At the summit of Everest, the oxygen concentration falls to roughly one-third of sea level. It's important to recognize that the partial pressure of oxygen at the Everest summit is near the human body's survival limit. Permanent human habitation ceases above 5400 meters due to insufficient oxygen, not difficult terrain. While acclimatized individuals can survive several weeks or months at 6000 meters, the body undergoes steady deterioration, beginning to reverse the acclimatization that enables ascent up to these heights.
Mera Peak, one of Nepal's Trekking Peaks, offers a glimpse into life above 6000 meters.
Mountain Logistics, Acclimatization, and Safety
Climbing above 7000 meters is a unique experience, and an expedition's success depends heavily on the team's adherence to accepted principles regarding acclimatization and mountain logistics. In mountaineering, many factors, such as weather and route conditions, can impact what happens and the decisions that must be made. Each climber must balance individual needs with maintaining team strength and health. Building a strong foundation of experience over days and weeks at high altitude is vital, but over-exertion should be avoided.
It's beneficial to adopt the adage of "climb high and sleep low" whenever possible. At lower elevations, the body can recover from previous work with sleep and food. However, sleeping above 21,000 feet offers little advantage in acclimatization, as it is now accepted that no acclimatization occurs above that altitude; only debilitation follows. Climbing at high altitude, exhaustion and waste build up in the muscles, leading to weakness and fatigue.
Even on lower-elevation climbs, like Mount Kilimanjaro, it's a good idea to climb high and sleep low.
Force Yourself to Eat and Sleep
Sleep and proper nutrition are crucial at high altitude. The ability to sleep after hard work is an indication that the body is properly adjusting to the altitude. Difficulty falling asleep indicates the need to reduce the body's stress and to slow the rate of ascent. A fit body responds well to rest at lower altitudes. However, digesting complex foods at high altitude is challenging, and the body actually expends energy to do so.
Fighting and Listening to Fatigue
Listen to your body and pay attention to feelings of fatigue. Inner motivation helps overcome fatigue early on, but overwork can affect overall resilience over a prolonged period. Serious fatigue can go unnoticed by physically fit climbers, only manifesting itself when it's too late.
Maintaining High Morale
In addition to physical challenges, maintaining high morale is essential. This can be achieved through good food, good health, good sleep, and open communication within the team. While rigorous safety procedures should be strictly followed, it's also important to maintain a confident, relaxed frame of mind. Monotonous tasks like cooking should be regarded as opportunities to relax and enjoy simple moments.
Alternative Remedies
High altitude sickness can be reduced by using strong antioxidants like Glucosamine, green tea, and Vitamins C, B, and D. Aspirin can help thin the blood. Vitamin D supplements may help address weak knees and joint degeneration concerns. Green Defence can help compensate for the lack of fresh vegetables at high altitude.
Physical and Mental Effects on People
At 6000 meters, acclimatized climbers may expect to feel well, have reasonable appetites, sleep normally and be capable of carrying loads of 20-25 kilos on easy ground. Above 7000 meters, tiredness and lethargy increase, and heavy loads should be kept under 20 kilos. Ascent rates vary depending on terrain and climber physiology, but 300-400 meters a day is a reasonable expectation.
Deterioration becomes increasingly apparent after several nights at 7000 meters. Appetite falls, sleep becomes intermittent, and body weight drops significantly. The cold is felt more at high altitude.
Illnesses at Extreme Altitude
Illnesses at high altitude are more severe than at sea level. Sore throats, persistent coughing, chest infections, and blood clots can all occur. It's crucial to recognize the signs of altitude-related illnesses, such as high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), and take immediate action if necessary.
Cold, Washing, Defecation, Boots, Frostbite & Cooking
The effects of cold are more pronounced at high altitudes due to colder temperatures, high winds, and the depressing effects of low oxygen on the body's heat production. Proper layering, using windproof suits, and insulated boots can help maintain body warmth. Washing is not practical, but boiling water helps to cut down diarrhea from bowel infections. Defecation is difficult, but specially-designed suits with appropriate zips are available. Frostbite is usually preventable by taking care to maintain body warmth, but if it occurs, medical attention is essential. Cooking requires reliable stoves and adequate fuel supplies.
Tents and Snow Holes
Modern tents and specially-designed box tents have revolutionized high-altitude camping. Snow holes and igloos provide additional shelter from wind, noise, and snow.
Drugs and "Brain Damage"
No drugs have shown to be effective in preventing the deterioration that occurs at extreme altitudes. While some believe that certain substances, like vitamin E, garlic, marijuana, or alcohol, may help or hinder, there is no scientific evidence to support these claims. Amphetamines and sleeping pills are discouraged due to potential negative effects on mental function and performance. There is no proven evidence of intellectual impairment or "brain damage" from climbing at extreme altitudes.
Conclusions
There is no way to completely prevent the ill effects of extreme altitudes. The keys to survival are:
- Gradual Acclimatization
- Staying well-hydrated
- Keeping time spent above 7000 meters as short as possible
- Prioritizing warmth and shelter
- Descending if unwell, even with minor symptoms
- Taking rest periods as low as possible, certainly below 5500 meters
By following these guidelines, climbers can minimize their risks and maximize their chances of a successful high-altitude expedition.
- The steep decline in oxygen content at high altitudes during expeditions can lead to physical challenges that require careful management, especially at the summit of Everest, where oxygen concentration is one-third of sea level.
- In mountain logistics, adherence to accepted principles regarding acclimatization and mountain logistics is crucial for the success of any climb above 7000 meters, considering the unpredictable factors such as weather and route conditions.
- Proper nutrition and adequate sleep are essential at high altitude, as they play a significant role in the body's ability to adjust to the altitude, and difficulty sleeping may indicate the need for a slower ascent.
- Maintaining high morale is essential during high-altitude expeditions, as it can be achieved through good food, good health, good sleep, open communication within the team, and by maintaining a confident, relaxed frame of mind.
